Nagoya food guide: where to eat miso katsu, hitsumabushi, Taiwan ramen, kishimen, tebasaki and tenmusu

Nagoya Station is the easiest place to try lots of Nagoya food. Nagoya Umaimon-dori inside the station has 17 restaurants, including Misen for Taiwan ramen, Yabaton for miso katsu, Maruya Honten for hitsumabushi and Ekikama Kishimen, while ESCA, the underground mall on the Shinkansen side, has places for hitsumabushi, miso katsu, tebasaki, tenmusu, miso nikomi udon and kishimen. For the original flagships, there is Yabaton's Yabacho Honten (founded 1947) and Atsuta Horaiken's Jingu branch (founded 1873). This article goes through where to eat each dish, one by one.

Where can you try lots of Nagoya food in one place?

Where to eat miso katsu

Miso katsu is a pork cutlet topped with miso sauce. Yabaton, the best-known restaurant, was founded in 1947; its Yabacho Honten has 135 seats, is open 11:00–21:00 every day, and is 5 minutes' walk from Exit 4 of Yabacho subway station. At Nagoya Station, Yabaton also has branches at Umaimon-dori and ESCA. ESCA's official site lists Yabaton's waraji tonkatsu bento and hire tonkatsu bento for takeout.

Where to eat hitsumabushi

Hitsumabushi is grilled eel on rice, eaten in changing ways: as it is, with condiments and as ochazuke. Atsuta Horaiken's official site says eating it with condiments or as ochazuke became established in the Meiji era. Atsuta Horaiken was founded in 1873; its Jingu branch is 3 minutes' walk from Temmacho Station, takes last orders 11:30–14:30 and 16:30–20:30, and is closed on Tuesdays and the 2nd and 4th Mondays (open on public holidays). There is also a takeout-only Matsuzakaya Chika store. At Nagoya Station, try Maruya Honten at Umaimon-dori, or Ino, Bincho or Yufuku at ESCA (with takeout).

What about Taiwan ramen and kishimen?

Taiwan ramen is served at Misen at Umaimon-dori in Nagoya Station. Kishimen is a flat udon noodle: try Ekikama Kishimen at Umaimon-dori, or the miso nikomi udon and kishimen restaurants at ESCA. Both are right inside Nagoya Station, just right for a meal before boarding or just after arriving by Shinkansen.

What about tebasaki and tenmusu?

Tebasaki are fried chicken wings. ESCA's official site lists takeout tebasaki from Furaibo and Torikai Sohonten, and Torikai Sohonten also offers a Nagoya Cochin oyakodon. Tenmusu are small rice balls with shrimp tempura inside, available to take away from Senju Honten at ESCA. Both are good to bring back and share at your stay.

What else is distinctly Nagoya?

• Curry udon: Wakashachiya at ESCA (takeout available)
• Nagoya Cochin oyakodon: Torikai Sohonten at ESCA (takeout available)
• Coffee shop: Komeda's Coffee TAKEOUT at ESCA
• Cake: the Sakae flagship of HARBS, a café born in Nagoya (opened 1981; 11:00–20:00)

Taking Nagoya food home as a souvenir?

Atsuta Horaiken's official site says its takeout-only menu is also popular as a Nagoya souvenir. ESCA has souvenir shops as well as Nagoya food restaurants, and you can buy takeout and souvenirs at Nagoya Umaimon-dori too. On the day you leave by Shinkansen or plane, you can pick everything up at Nagoya Station.

In what order should a first-timer try them?

With 2–3 days in Nagoya, choosing one or two Nagoya dishes a day lets you compare them comfortably. On arrival day, have Taiwan ramen or kishimen at Umaimon-dori in Nagoya Station; on day 2, miso katsu on the day you walk Nagoya Castle or Osu; on day 3, hitsumabushi. Tebasaki and tenmusu are easiest as takeout from ESCA to eat at your stay, without worrying about crowds. In a City of Nagoya survey, 40.8% of foreign visitors went to Osu, so pairing meals with days in Osu or Sakae keeps travel to a minimum.

Eating Nagoya food with children?

Queuing at popular restaurants is hard with small children. With ESCA's takeout, you can bring hitsumabushi, Yabaton bento, tenmusu and more back to your stay and eat at your children's pace. A stay with a kitchen has tableware for sharing, so you can serve them alongside food your children like.

Can you eat late at night or on a rainy day?

Closing times vary by restaurant. ESCA's restaurants are open until 22:30 (some differ), Yabaton's Yabacho Honten until 21:00, and Atsuta Horaiken's Jingu branch takes its last evening orders at 20:30. If you arrive late, ESCA at Nagoya Station is the safest bet, and as an underground mall it is reachable without an umbrella on rainy days.

How to plan a day of Nagoya food

• Morning: breakfast at an ESCA café (from 7:00)
• Lunch: miso katsu at Yabacho Honten after Nagoya Castle or Osu
• Afternoon: cake at HARBS in Sakae
• Dinner: hitsumabushi at Atsuta Horaiken's Jingu branch, or Taiwan ramen and kishimen at Umaimon-dori in Nagoya Station
• At your stay: takeout tebasaki and tenmusu from ESCA to eat in your room

Popular restaurants can have queues at busy times. If waiting is hard, use ESCA's takeout and compare dishes at your stay. ESCA's official site says takeout items should be eaten on the day of purchase.

Where in Nagoya is convenient for eating your way around?

Staying near Nagoya Station makes Umaimon-dori and ESCA easy to reach, with Sakae and Yabacho a subway ride away. Central Nagoya has private stays in Nakamura Ward, west of Nagoya Station. House and Residence are 7 and 2 minutes' walk from Nakamura Koen Station, 4 stops (about 7 minutes, 240 yen) from Nagoya Station on the Higashiyama subway line. Stays is 4 minutes' walk from Taiko-dori Station, 1 stop from Nagoya Station on the Sakura-dori Line. Every stay has a kitchen, and House and Residence have a microwave, so you can reheat takeout. There is also a 10% long-stay discount.

• Eating Nagoya food in your room →
• A week in Nagoya like a local →
• Nagoya itinerary: 1, 3 and 5 days →

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